"Cut"
edges.
(LESSON 7)

Some filet crochet projects not only
have unusual shapes and not only require increasing and decreasing on both sides, but also
has "cut" edges on the top and and on the bottom, like this one.
If you ever wonder how to do it,
this part is for you. It looks like it's hard, but in reality it's very simple! For
example, you have to make this place mat:

All you have to do is start your
work with a FIRST row ABOVE the bottom"cut" edge. This first row is above the
red line on the picture:

You work the starting chain for this
row and proceed following the chart (increasing and decreasing on the both sides) till the
LAST row BELOW the top "cut" edge. This last row is below the red line on the
picture above. Then you finish those "cut" parts above the red line separately:
finish one part, fasten off, re-connect the thread and finish next part.
Then you turn your work upside down
and finish bottom "cut" parts, also separately - connect the thread, finish one
part, fasten off, re-connect the thread and finish the next part.
It's that simple!
Here are the instructions on how to
make the place mat above:
Start with the row above the red
line. It consists of 13 meshes. Work the starting ch45 (13x3+6 = 45)
Row1: Dc in eighth chain from hook,
ch2, skip two chains, dc in third chain, dc in next nine chains, *ch2, skip two chains, dc
in third chain, repeat from * 3 times, dc in next nine chains, *ch2, skip two chains, dc
in third chain, repeat from * 2 times.
Row2: Ch7, turn, dc in first dc, ch2, 4dc, *ch2, dc, repeat from * 3 times, 9dc, *ch2, dc,
repeat from * 3 times, 3dc, ch2, dc in fifth chain of ch7 below, ch2, dtr in same stitch
as previous dc.
Continue following the chart till
the red line.
After the red line:
2 sl st in space of ch2, sl st in
dc, ch5, dc in next dc, *ch2, dc, repeat from * 4 times (here the part ends). Turn work, 2
sl st in space of ch2, sl st in dc, ch5, dc in next dc, *ch2, dc, repeat from * 2 times.
Fasten off.
Then re-connect the thread in specified dc (the chart shows from which dc you are supposed
to start the next part), ch5, dc in next dc, *ch2, dc, repeat from * 4 times (here the
part ends). Turn work, 2 sl st in space of ch2, sl st in dc, ch5, dc in next dc, *ch2, dc,
repeat from * 2 times. Fasten off.
Then turn your work upside down and
work the parts below the bottom red line. Please note, when working the bottom parts, you
work stitches of the first row in the "upside down" stitches, which means you'll
work them not in the tops of dc but in the bottoms. Nothing hard, just little bit tricky,
but you'll get used!
Again re-connect the thread in
specified dc, ch5, dc in next dc, *ch2, dc, repeat from * 4 times (here the part ends).
Turn work, 2 sl st in space of ch2, sl st in dc, ch5, dc in next dc, *ch2, dc, repeat from
* 2 times. Fasten off.
Then work the last part: again re-connect the thread in specified dc, ch5, dc in next dc,
*ch2, dc, repeat from * 4 times (here the part ends). Turn work, 2 sl st in space of ch2,
sl st in dc, ch5, dc in next dc, *ch2, dc, repeat from * 2 times.
Fasten off if you don't want to work a border around your place mat. Don't fasten off if
you wish to work a border, as described in the previous lesson "Working
borders".
You are done!
********************************
Here is another example, if the
"cut" edges consist of more then 2 parts and start on different
"levels".

You work such projects absolutely
the same as previous one, just remember to start the mejor part of the pattern with the
first row ABOVE the deepest cut, and finish the mejor part of the pattern with the last
row BELOW the deepest cut:

Instructions on how to make this
place mat:
Start with the row above the red
line. It consists of 21 meshes. Work the starting ch69 (21x3+6 = 69)
Row1: Dc in eighth chain from hook,
*ch2, skip two chains, dc in third chain, repeat from * 20 times.
Row2: Ch7, turn, dc in first dc, *ch2, dc, repeat from * 7 times, 6dc, *ch2, dc, repeat
from * 3 times, 6dc, *ch2, dc, repeat from * 6 times, ch2, dc in fifth chain of ch7 below,
ch2, dtr in same stitch as previous dc.
Continue following the chart till
the red line.
After the red line:
2 sl st in space of ch2, sl st in
dc, 2 sl st in space of next ch2, sl st in next dc, ch5, dc in next dc, *ch2, dc, repeat
from * 7 times (here the part ends). Ch5, turn work, dc in second dc, *ch2, dc, repeat
from * 6 times, ch2, dc in third chain of ch5. Turn work, 2 sl st in space of ch2, sl st
in dc, ch5, dc in next dc, ch2, dc in next dc. Fasten off.
Then re-connect the thread in specified dc and make another little part, shown green on
scheme: ch5, dc in next dc, ch2, dc in next dc. Fasten off.
Then re-connect the thread in specified dc and make another bigger part: ch5, dc in next
dc, *ch2, dc, repeat from * 7 times (here the part ends). Ch5, turn work, dc in second dc,
*ch2, dc, repeat from * 6 times, ch2, dc in third chain of ch5. Turn work, 2 sl st in
space of ch2, sl st in dc, 2 sl st in space of next ch2, sl st in next dc, ch5, dc in next
dc, ch2, dc in next dc. Fasten off.
Then re-connect the thread in specified dc and make another little part, shown blue on
scheme: ch5, dc in next dc, ch2, dc in next dc. Fasten off.
Then turn your work upside down and
work the parts below the bottom red line.
Again re-connect the thread in
specified dc, ch5, dc in next dc, *ch2, dc, repeat from * 7 times (here the part ends).
Ch5, turn work, dc in second dc, *ch2, dc, repeat from * 6 times, ch2, dc in third chain
of ch5. Turn work, 2 sl st in space of ch2, sl st in dc, ch5, dc in next dc, ch2, dc in
next dc. Fasten off.
Then re-connect the thread in specified dc and make another little part, shown yellow on
scheme: ch5, dc in next dc, ch2, dc in next dc. Fasten off.
Then re-connect the thread in specified dc and make another bigger part: ch5, dc in next
dc, *ch2, dc, repeat from * 7 times (here the part ends). Ch5, turn work, dc in second dc,
*ch2, dc, repeat from * 6 times, ch2, dc in third chain of ch5. Turn work, 2 sl st in
space of ch2, sl st in dc, 2 sl st in space of next ch2, sl st in next dc, ch5, dc in next
dc, ch2, dc in next dc. Fasten off.
Then re-connect the thread in specified dc and make another little part, shown lilac on
scheme: ch5, dc in next dc, ch2, dc in next dc.
Fasten off if you don't want to work a border around your place mat. Don't fasten off if
you wish to work a border, as described in the previous lesson "Working
borders".
The place mat is ready.
********************************
In my next lesson I'll show you how
to make some special kind of meshes, which are rather rare in filet crochet, but give the
item that unique touch - little checkmark and popcorn (I use those in some of my models).
Happy crocheting!
 
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